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Occasionally it seems that world is in pure chaos with nothing making sense, but that doesn't matter as long as I can sew. Sewing is a form of art, or at the very least creativity, and a form of expression. A great outlet for the tension of everyday life. Also you can make cute things. The craft revolution is truly taking place, old skills are being revived by a new generation, but with a seriously modern twist.

I've made Mario pillow cases, a giraffe print background, and turned duvet covers into summer dresses. I enjoy making something unique, special, and me- then I like wearing it and watching it fall to pieces or not fit properly. Then I enjoy (slightly less) fixing it.

One day I shall have a room filled with glorious fabrics and boxes of notions, and on that day I will have found my nirvana. But until then this blog will exist as my virtual haberdashery and sewing room. Hopefully you'll enjoy looking at my creations as much as I enjoy looking at other blogs, and you'll be inspire to make something of your own.

Monday, 27 June 2011

Issey Miyake

Japanese Designer Issey Miyake is another name to lean, and not just because it's fun to say.

Miyake grew up in Hiroshima and when he was 7 he witness the A-bomb dropped on the city in 1945.  He graduated in graphic design from Tama Art University, Tokyo, then worked in Paris and New York.  He enrolled at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (renowned tailoring and dressmaking school in Paris), he worked behind the scenes for four years for Laroche, Givenchy, and Beene. In 1970, he set up the Miyake Design Studio in Tokyo, and displayed his first independent collection in 1973.  He won the Japan Fashion Editor's Club Award in 1974, and the Pratt Institute, New York Award for Creative Design in 1980.


Miyake merged Japanaese and Western styles, and Bloomingdales devoted a section to selling Miyake's 'East meets West', and became an internationally recognised name in the 1980's.  The 'East Meets West'  collection was mostly T-shirts with Japanese tattoo designs and coats featuring the 'sashiko' Japanese embroidery technique.  

In the 1980's he began experimenting with pleats (well who wouldn't?) to allow greated flexibility for movement of the wearer and ease of care.  He won the International Award of the Council of America Fashion Designers in 1984 (which sounds a lot like a very well dressed crime fighting team imo), the Neiman Marcus Award in the same year (before he was an expensive American store, Neiman Marcus was an influential fashion designer).

In 1993 he produced Pleats Please, in which the clothes were cut and sewn then sandwiched and heat pressed to pleat the fabric. The collection combines technology, functionality, and beauty, and was on display at the Pompidou Centre.






In the late 1990's Miyake began working with Dai Fujiwara on A POC (A Piece Of Cloth), using new processes that harness computer technology, industrial knitting or weaving machines to create clothing beginning with a single piece of thread.  A POC was launched commercially in 1999, but Miyake refused to put his name on the collection, insisting it was an ensemble piece, he sold it as a long tube of jersey and let the customer cut and shape it.




In 2006, he became the first fashion designer to receive the Kyoto Prize in Arts and Philosophy for lifetime achievement, from the Inamori Foundation in Japan- he got a diploma, 20-karat-gold prize medal, and 50 million yen ($446,000).  Which ain't bad.  The Pleats Please collection was singled out as allowing 'unrestricted body movement while enabling the fabric to maintain its form', and the aforementioned A POC.

In 2007, Dai Fujiwara became the new Creative Director of the House of Issey Miyake.  In 2010 Fujiwara worked with mathematician William Thurston to create 'beautiful geometry', with the mathematic thought providing structure and elegance to the crazy rainbow styling. 





 And that's Miyake!


Thursday, 23 June 2011

Hot Pink Dress

I made a new dress this week, after I went shopping with my dad and his cash! for a father's day get together. I got 5 pieces of remnant fabric and a cool bundle of vintage green velvet trim for £3 (I estimated it had about 9 metres on to start with), and each piece of fabric was £1.  The pink piece I used for this week's dress had a label on which said £15 a metre and I got two metres for £1- score!

It's a hot pink colour, I think synthetic, shiny, upholstery best describes it, but makes it sound hideous.  I turned it over and used the matt side as the right side for my dress.  I then used the green trim around the waist and top of the dress to break up all the pink.  I still think there's too much pink in the dress, it's quite a strong over powering shade but I like it.  I used McCalls pattern M6331 variation B which I used before to make a dress from a second hand duvet cover.  It worked really well last time (surprisingly well) and was so complimented I was compelled to make it again.  I don't think this turned out as well as the first attempt- I think the colour is too strong and the pattern on the fabric I used last time worked really well with the design. 

Well what d'ya think?








Tuesday, 21 June 2011

Shoes

I was never a shoe girl but slowly I have amassed a few pairs, none particularly fancy and most uncomfortable because I opt for cheapo ones which fall to pieces rather quickly, and I have delicate little feet :)  I have found some cute and fun shoes online I thought I'd share.
Starting with lace ups of course...





Heeled brogues style shoes...















And some a little crazier...



Tuesday, 7 June 2011

Edward and Mrs Simpson

Just wanted to share an image of Edward and Mrs Simpson, that is King Edward VIII who abdicated in 1936 to marry Wallace Simpson*.  Wallace was a twice divorced American and entirely unsuitable to be Queen- more recently there was some chatter about Prince Charles re-marrying Camilla Parker Bowles as divorce and remarriage made him entirely unsuitable to be King, no one seemed to mind when he was boffing her behind Diana's back though...  Anyway, the Duke and Duchess, as they became, married in France in 1937, and looked rather stylish imo.  Simpson wore a bias-cut dress and jacket in silk crepe designed by Paris-based American couturier Mainboucher, in 'Wallace blue'.


I'm not sure if this is a replica or the original which has lost its colour...

This replica was held by National Museum of Scotland until Madonna borrowed it for her new film...
The Duke wore a black cashmere herringbone weave tailcoat , grey waistcoat, blue and white pinstripe shirt with white collar, blue and white chequered silk tie, and grey striped worsted trousers.  The Duke (as I'm sure his friends called him) was quite the trend setter; he loved bright colours and prints, wore his trousers with belts instead of braces (the American way, Wallace was clearly a bad influence), and even replaced his trouser buttons with zips.
Striking how thin she is...also it is a dress not trousers.



 

*Yes this was the sub-plot to the King's Speech

Monday, 30 May 2011

The House of Worth

I got a book. And I've read...some....  I'm a rubbish reader, I'm so slow and have a stack of books I want to read so I'm not how sensible it was to get a new book from the Salts Mills book shop.  But my mum bought it, and its called Fashion Since 1900.  I am very interested in fashion history as a form of social history, I am also interested in how major events affected what people wore, and how fashion responded to social changes.  I've only got up to the 1930's (peeked ahead to the end and spied a picture of Rafael Nadal!) and the First World War only lasted a few pages but this post isn't about my book.

It's about Paris fashion design House of Worth who's Peacock Dress from 1903 caught my eye (when I saw it in my book, duh).  Unfortunately, digital cameras were rubbish in 1903 and the picture only offers a glimpse of what was probably a really cool dress.  So I searched online for better images and found a whole website of pictures (who knew the internet has pictures?!?)

Lady Curzon in 1903 in Delhi celebrating the coronation of King Edward VIII and Queen Alexandra as Emperor and Empress of India.

The image on the left being the photograph and on the right is a painting or drawing, so it's hard to know how accurate an image it is but I would have hoped the colours were more vivid in the real dress- like a peacock.  I definately think the photo is better as you can see how well it drapes on her body, although the poor woman will have been in cased in whale bone or steel (!) corset.  The House of Worth was founded by Charles Frederick Worth but the Peacock Dress was designed by his son Jean-Phillipe Worth. 

1898-1900 Silk evening dress
According to my book Worth clothes the wealthy movers and shakers ( well the ladies at least) and made them gowns of conspicuous expense (the fashion world really aint that pretty) to ID them as women associated with affluence and power.  In particular Worth appealed to the King's court to gain wealthy new clients.  The following are dresses, by C F Worth, I enjoy for there exquisite detail, ludicrousness and uncomfortable-looking-ness.


1883-85 Silk, glass, velvet Day dress
1887 Silk, glass evening dress,
1892 Silk, crystal, evening dress




1925, Silk, glass evening dress
And here's a fancy one by Jean-Phillipe from the 1920's that celebrated the slim boyish silhouette.  According to my book the ladies still wore corsets in this period but at this point it was to flatten their breasts not accentuate them.   I'm sure it all made sense at the time.















Tuesday, 24 May 2011

50's Duvet Dress

Bought another second hand duvet cover from a charity shop, this time only a single, for £1.99, and used a pattern I had bought online, McCalls M6331, for about £5, I made this dress.  I had to adjust it slightly from their design as my zip was too short and I didn't want to have to buy another one as the local shop overcharges for zips imo.  But I think that actually added to the 50's style. 









Sunday, 22 May 2011

Crinkley Dress

 




Using a new pattern I ordered recently, and some crazy crinkley fabric I made a new blue dress.  The cover of the pattern had drawings but no photos so it was hard to know exactly what it would look like.  And using my crazy crinkley fabric it came out rather vampy. 

Thursday, 19 May 2011

Yorkshire Fashion Archive

A couple of weeks ago, over Easter I went to Salts Mill in Saltaire.  If you don't know Sir Titus Salt (world's coolest name?) built Saltaire in 1853 for his factory and to house his workers as the pollutions, overcrowding, and generally living conditions were creating major health problems for the people in Bradford and surrounding cities.  So in Saltaire every family had their own house (as opposed to multiple families sharing) with indoor plumbing and toilets, and local amenities.  Although Salt was a pious tea totaller with a strange dislike of washing lines and so residents were required to attend church every Sunday, stay off the grass, drink nought but water, and keep their laundry to themselves.

Anyway, Salts Mill is now an art gallery housing all things David Hockney related including old paintings of swimming pools, photo montages, and new ipad produced pics of flowers (erm not his best imo).  The gallery is massive as it used to be the factory but its light and airy and a perfect gallery space, and serves well a giant art book shop- a really really good one btw.  There is also a small gallery space with a permanent exhibition on Sir Titus Salt, and a temp exhibition.  Which is currently some pieces from the Yorkshire Fashion Archive- a project by Leeds University (sigh why didn't I do that course???). 

TBH there wasn't that much there, my mum had told me it was an exhibition on 100 years of fashion but the space is so small I was skeptical they would have much.  The pieces were mainly from the 40's and 50's with one set from the 60's, they also had photographs of the people wearing the clothes, and the places they bought them which touched on the history of the local area.  I find social history interesting, and fashion and clothing* being part of popular culture offer a way to learn about our recent history.  Fashion and clothing do not exist in a vacuum they have affected society and vice versa, so I find it all very interesting.  And tidbit to tell your friends- there was a shop in Yorkshire owned by a man called Montegue who would provide a gentlemen with a full suit including shirt, waistcoat, trousers, jacket, and underwear.  And it was called...The Full Monty!




*Fashion is not necessarily the same as clothes, or clothes that most people actually wear and it never has been.  Fashion by its very nature is constantly changing, making sure there is a new vogue every few months maintains it's exclusivity.  It has therefore always been a preoccupation with those that have time and money, although clothes have become increasingly mass-produced and therefore accessible.  So I think fashion and regular clothes have an interesting relationship.

Tuesday, 17 May 2011

Fabric, Clothes, and Hair


Good haul today as I went shopping prior to a hair appointment. 
First a stop at Dorothy Perkins and I got these:



There's a cute blue jumper with seahorses on it, a plain black jumper, sensible black work trousers, and a little black dress.  The best part was that they were all in sale- yay!  At full price it would have come to £93!  But they were priced at £40 for all four, and at the till I discovered there further discounts and it came to £27!  (Too many exclamations marks???)  But I'm pleased with my purchases as they are cute but also practical, and on sale. 

Then to Fab Works the fabric store, where all remnants are £1 now.  There wasn't much there today that I wanted and I wish, wish, wish there were more/better fabric stores around here.  This one is the best I've been to though, and I got four pieces for £4.  The light blue piece is huuuuuge but I'm not sure what would be appropriate to make with it, I'd like to make trousers with the dark blue (has pinstripes) but  I've not have a great success rate with trousers, the red flowers piece is very thin so it may become the bodice for a dress, and I'm hoping to make a jacket from the cream piece.



From there I went on to get my hair cut and it looks nice and neat now.


 Check me out- super sexy hair. 


Friday, 13 May 2011

TV Style Icons Troi

If you were wondering, no there is no reason why I do my numbers in french, and no I don't know why I do it.

Today's TV styler comes from a TV programme I find soooooooo dull (kinda like Downton Abbey, except with singing and dancing...) Glee.  It's taken over the world for reasons I don't quite understand, clearly it built from the success of High School Musical but revolves around mediocre remixes of lame songs (oh don't get me wrong the peeps can sing and the songs are super down-with-the-kids but I don't get the point of politely singing a Kanye song- if you don't like him you won't like their version, and if you do like him you won't like their version, and yet everyone likes it).  All the characters are having emotions all the time, then crying about them, telling everyone about them, then bursting into song about them- just exhausting. 

Anyway, from the very first episode there was a diamond in the rough, Emma Pillsbury played by Jayma Mays is totally awesome!  And I'm not the only person to notice, many of my pics are from What Would Emma Wear- a website dedicated to dissecting Emma Pillsburys outfits in each episode. Happily I have a job now so a lack of free time will prevent me from going that crazy!

Emma Pillsbury never wears trousers, loves pencil skirts and nice cardis and vintage jewellery, and she often rocks adorably monochromatic outfits.  Her character is OCD, very prim and proper, hates germs, and her outfits are part of a perfect but incredible stressed exterior.  Observe.



A few of examples of the classic Pillsbury monochromatic looks.


And some of her jewellery, including collar brooches which I don't know the correct name for.